One sunny autumn morning, when I was maybe four or
five, Mutti turned to Carmen and said, “Watch Franz. I’ll have to find
something green for lunch.”
She called Josefa and me, put on her gloves, even
though it was warm outside, grabbed her shopping basket, and left. We hurried
after her in the morning sunlight.
Mutti strode along the street of the little
village we held our carnival in that week. We passed a big building that may
have been the city hall. Long slats of wood were all over it, and they almost
hid the big burnt hole in the upper story. People climbed all over the wood,
working on the broken bricks.
When the sidewalk ended, Mutti turned into a path
marked with grassy ruts. Josefa and I hurried to keep up with her. We tried not
to stumble on the uneven ground. The damp grasses left cold streaks on my bare
legs.
We reached a small pond, and Mutti stopped. Stinging
nettles grew in profusion by the pond, their dark green fleshy leaves crowding
out other grasses. Mutti checked her gloves and broke off the smaller nettles,
piling them into the basket. Josefa was reaching out to copy Mutti, but Mutti
slapped her hand away.
“Don’t do that,” she said. “They’ll sting you.”
“Yeah,” I said. “You don’t know anything.”
Josefa kicked my leg. I screamed and hit her. She
started crying.
Mutti ignored us.
I ran from my sister, being careful not to touch the
nettles. Josefa quit crying, sat in the grass, and played with a dandelion.
When the basket was almost full, Mutti turned toward
the meadow on the other side of the path. She picked the dandelion leaves and
piled them on top of the nettles. Some of the blooms had turned a gossamer gray
and Mutti left them alone. When I picked a gray one and blew on it, the gray
dissolved into many tiny parachutes, which floated softly in the breeze.
Josefa and I ran around the meadow, picking
dandelions and blowing them, until Mutti yelled at us. We trudged back after her
past the bombed out city hall to the grassy commons, where Vati had already put
up the back and sides of the shooting gallery in front of our caravan.
Vati stopped working, picked something white from
the ground next to the half-erected shooting gallery, and followed us to the
caravan home. He held up a dead chicken, his broad hands grasping it firmly by
the feet. Its head dangled from under its white, feathered body, wings
half-spread. The eyes were closed and its beak stood open. I thought the
chicken looked sad.
“I exchanged this for free tickets,” Vati said and
smiled.
Mutti put down her basket and clapped her hands.
“We’ll have a feast today,” she said and took the
chicken. She shooed Carmen and Franz from the caravan, but left the door open.
Franz sat down by the steps and played in the dirt. Josefa and I watched Mutti.
Mutti put the chicken in the wash bowl. Its head dangled over the rim and she
tucked that into the bowl too. The feet were sticking straight up. After she
heated water on the coal stove she took the chicken outside and poured the
boiling water over it. Then she left and let it sit on the caravan steps for a
while.
Josefa and I turned to play with Franz who drove an
imaginary car through the dirt, making car noises.
When I looked up again, Mutti sat on the steps,
plucking the feathers off the chicken. They fell in an untidy heap next to the
caravan home’s wheels. When she was done, she cut the belly of the chicken open
and dug out the insides.
I watched, eyes and mouths open.
Josefa joined me. “Yuck,” she said.
Mutti pulled out the intestines. “Most of this isn’t
good to eat. But the rest will taste great.” She looked at Josefa. “If you
don’t want it, we’ll eat it for you.”
“I want it, I want it,” Josefa said, but she sounded
doubtful.
Mutti rose and took the chicken inside.
For lunch we had potatoes with green stuff, made
from the greens we and Mutti had picked that morning, and parts of the chicken.
Carmen and Josefa each got a foot. Mutti showed them how to strip the scaly
skin off the foot and lower leg and eat the meaty gristle from between the
bones. I got the head. I cracked it open and ate the brains out of it. It was
delicious, much better than the greens we helped Mutti pick.
***
Many years later, in my spacious kitchen in America,
I remind Mutti of the chicken head. “I couldn’t eat that now. But then it
tasted delicious.”
“I remember,” Mutti says. “We did what we had to. My
children never went hungry.” She sighs and helps me finish washing the dishes.